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Adventurous Newsletter #12: Other Things

William Doran — Sun., June 13, 2021

Sometimes I cook enough to feed an army…and sometimes, I do other things.

Life rather rhythmically dances between industrious productivity and reflective appreciation of its gifts - at once pushing us to create new things and pulling us back to slow down and take it all in. Or this might just be an elaborate way to tell you that I don’t have any adventurous recipes to share this week (I do, sort of). Or perhaps there is some real value in doing other things like traveling (and recovering from it) and eating and drinking with your family. See happy-hour pictured above at the Mid City Beer Garden with my youngest sister, Katie, and mom, Teresa. Though I can’t bear to go more than a few days without cranking up all four burners on the stove and skipping around the kitchen in a full apron, my habitual culinary labors have been less constant this week. Photographing non-work meals isn’t always a priority either (or I’m just forgetful, I’ll let you decide which is true). So, here, I present to you a little window into an off-week as an adventurous cook (or what I managed to capture of it). P.S.: There are two recipes and definitely some adventure. Read on!

What is an adventurous cook if not a hungry person with a burnt left arm and a few good stories?

To start things off, a rogue hunk of salmon (before becoming Monday’s dinner) sent some hot olive oil skittering across my left forearm to officially mark me an adventurous cook. My arm (and my dignity) survived, along with our dinner plans. The salmon was tender, rich, and impeccably tart from a splash of lemon vinaigrette at the last minute. It was joined by cauliflower, twelve ways. I roasted two heads before my New York trip and my star-eater (aka grandmother) decided to stay with relatives - leaving my poor cauliflower for a cold and lonely week-long slumber in the fridge. So, it has made several appearances in this week’s meals, including sidekick to the offending (yet responsibly farmed) salmon.

Thursday sent us on a 100-mile round-trip dinner expedition across the swamps to visit one of Louisiana’s iconic institutions.

Growing up, Middendorf’s loomed as this mysterious restaurant, perched at the edge of civilization in Southeastern Louisiana on Lake Maurepas, “… pretty as a postcard and fringed with a lush, second-growth cypress and tupelo swamp.” Really, it is only about 50 miles from Baton Rouge or New Orleans, but it feels like another world. Regardless of your starting point, you will find yourself bouncing along a low slung concrete structure (I-55) for what feels like hours, parallel to the swamps and alligators laying flat in the cool, murky waters below. That is, unless you live there, in which case you’ll likely be arriving at Middendorf’s dock by boat. Sweet delicacies like blue crabs, crawfish, and catfish make their home in the same waters and end up on most plates in Middendorf’s dining room.

We had our eyes on the catfish (and some quality time with my forever-traveling-father).

Middendorf’s has been frying up the thinnest, crispiest catfish for Louisianians since 1934. Baked oysters, stuffed flounder, a searing sunset, and very dirty gin martinis were also on our agenda for the evening (along with a complimentary ride in Middendorf’s wheelchair lift with my grandma and her walker). We met my dad for dinner on his way out of town for the weekend. Through multiple buildings, high water, and even changes in ownership, the restaurant and the people of Manchac have held onto the magic of Southeastern Louisiana and life on the water. History abounds here. The restaurant even houses a 50-foot-long timeline detailing its story and the history of the town and its people.

Wanda and Lois, two 70-something locals, still waitress at Middendorf’s on Sundays after they go to church together.

Oral histories from dozens of residents can be found on the wall in the restaurant and have been recorded online thanks to the Southern Foodways Alliance, which began formally documenting food stories in 2005. Get into the experience on your drive to Middendorf’s by listening to Wanda Cortez and Lois Sykes tell their life stories, living there, and watching the restaurant become what it is today. You can find them online for free or in the Foodways Alliance app!

And then there was all that cauliflower.

Remember all that cauliflower I mentioned? There’s always room for comfort food, especially if constructed of reimagined leftovers! This recipe is a version of Priya Krishna’s Tomato Rice with Crispy Cheddar, published in New York Times Cooking and her lovely cookbook, Indian(-ish), which she co-wrote with her mom in 2019. Aside from adding roasted cauliflower, my version has garlic and a little white wine and is served with a dollop of Greek yogurt and a healthy sprinkling of dill. It’s similar to the original, but such a comforting home for leftover vegetables and rice. Besides, cheese can turn almost anything into an excellent weeknight meal.

Cheesy Tomato-Cauliflower Skillet Casserole

Other, other things like waking up early, walking a lot, and eating salad for breakfast.

I think I might be addicted to walking, testing the limits of my walking radius (and my feet), and seeing how many places I can actually get on-foot in an hour each morning. I have to wake up super early to beat grandma and get some time to myself - but I see this more as an exciting challenge than something that frustrates my mornings. Depending on where she is (still in bed, asleep on the couch, or in the bathroom) I have made use of myriad exits from the house including all doors and even a low window to make a fast, silent exit and get to the street before requests for coffee or morning news can make it to my ears. Being the first awake in your household can be a little thrilling and a lot rewarding once I can get to a place where I can sit for a minute to read, or write, and take in the world.

The world (and here I include whatever corner of the earth you may currently inhabit) is full of magical things, awaiting for “our wits to grow sharper.”

That’s a butchered quote from Eden Phillpotts that I have always loved. As I make my way back home to finish getting ready for the day (including making my bed, drinking like 18 oz. of water, taking vitamins, and making a salad), I wave to dogs and old ladies, watch birds (I saw an early one catch the worm today), and listen to bull frogs that still think its nighttime. Sometimes I change my route or walk further to visit one of a handful of coffee shops that are neighborhood-adjacent.

Salad for Breakfast: Mint-Grapefruit-Cherry Tomato

This is such a simple recipe that it doesn’t really require a recipe card or printable sheet. It has seven ingredients plus salt and pepper and can be made in the bowl from which it is consumed. It’s great with a slice of quiche or some hard boiled eggs - or just by itself for a very light and refreshing start to your day! You can also omit the onions and cheese if they are too much for your morning routine.

Combine the following ingredients in a medium bowl, toss, and eat:

• Grapefruit segments, remove skin, seeds, and pith

• A handful of cherry tomatoes cut in half

• 1/4 of a small red onion or 1/2 shallot, thinly sliced (optional)

• A small handful of herbs like mint (or basil would be good), roughly chopped

• A tablespoon of mild feta or goat cheese, crumbled (optional)

• 1/4 tsp. black pepper and some flaky sea salt to taste

• Juice from 1/2 lime

• 1 tsp extra virgin olive oil

Let’s Make Dinner - Fri., July 2, 6-8 PM CDT

Join us Friday, July 2, for the next installment of Family Dinner - we will be making a quick version of Pork Ragu (opting for ground pork instead of pork shoulder)! Let’s talk, cook, and eat! All you need is a smart phone or computer. Get your ingredients together, put on your aprons, and make a drink. Sign up to join the party. Learn about the original recipe here. Please note that we are making a simplified version with ground pork!